SINCE 1967
duke of pearl

Shell Names, Origins, and Notes

Below is a comprehensive list under the topic Shell Names, Origins, and Notes. It includes the species we currently process, as well as others we've offered in the past, tested during development, or commonly encountered in inlay work worldwide. Whether you're a luthier, craftsman, or collector, understanding these shell names, origins, and notes will help you choose the right materials for your artistic or functional needs.

Shell names origins and notes

Ocean Pearl Oysters

Silver-Lip (Pinctada maxima – Australia)

This once-large shell produced classic white M.O.P. for pistol grips and buttons. Today, smaller shell sizes make it difficult to obtain large inlay blanks.

Gold-Lip (Pinctada maxima – Indonesia & Philippines)

This variety provides Gold M.O.P. from a thin yellow layer beneath the nacre. The white nacre also flashes with vibrant iridescence.

Black-Lip (Pinctada margaritifera – Tahiti)

Known for producing exotic black pearls, this shell rarely grows large enough for inlay use. Availability is sporadic due to size limitations.

Decorative and Specialty Shells

Wing Shell (Pteria penguin – Philippines, Tonga)

Scoop-shaped and thin, this shell yields Brown M.O.P. with pinkish-brown hues and high iridescence.

Capiz (Placuna placenta – Philippines)

Flat and round (2–3”), this shell has long been used in lampshades and crafts. You can cut it with scissors after boiling, but it’s fragile and flakes easily—limiting its role in inlay work.

Pen Shell (Pinna rudis – Indonesia)

Used traditionally for beads, this large, thin shell lacks pearlescence. However, it offers silky chatoyance in tan and purplish-brown tones, similar to tortoiseshell.

Cultured Pearl Oysters

Agoya / Akoya Oyster (Pinctada fucata – Japan)

Used to grow cultured pearls, this small shell shows a straw-yellow tone with pink and green highlights. Its interior has a slightly bumpy figure.

Abalones by Region

Donkey Ear Abalone (Haliotis asinina – Philippines)

Small and narrow, this pink shell gets its name from its shape. It has fine surface texture and a soft iridescence, but it’s too thin for solid inlay blanks.

Japanese Awabi Abalone (Haliotis madaka – Japan)

Once a giant among abalones, this shell offers pale nacre with rippled patterns. Overfishing depleted the population, and it's now only used as veneer or Abalam®.

Korean Awabi (Haliotis supertexta – Korea)

Small and pale-colored, this shell shows fine surface texture and rivals Turbo in color intensity. It works well in pastel-toned designs.

Ormer / Sea Ear (Haliotis tuberculata – English Channel)

Traditionally used in violin bow frogs, this small and thin abalone has pale nacre and limited size.

Red Abalone (Haliotis rufescens – Northern California)

The largest abalone in the world, it features dusky pinks, greens, and violets. Its central “heart” section offers richly colored material. However, overfishing, otters, and disease have shut down the fishery indefinitely.

Pink Abalone (Haliotis corrugata – Southern California & Baja)

Light to dark pinks define this underused shell. While the raw shell can be brittle, finished pieces are durable. It now substitutes for harder-to-source Green Abalone.

Green Abalone (Haliotis fulgens – Southern California & Baja)

Second only to Paua in color, this shell offers deep greens, blues, and pinks. Larger, colorful shells have become rare, making this material limited in supply.

Paua Abalone (Haliotis iris – New Zealand)

Known as the most colorful nacreous shell, Paua shows vibrant blues and greens. Even the pink areas turn bluish at an angle. Thanks to strict fishery management, good-quality shells remain available. Beware of dyed imitations—our shells are never altered.

 

Turbo Shells and Sea Snails

Green Sea Snail (Turbo marmoratus – Okinawa)

Popular in the 1800s and early 1900s, this shell shows creamy iridescence and a rolling light effect. African sources have dried up due to overfishing.

Green Turbo Shell (Chlorostoma xanthostigma – Africa)

This cone-shaped snail produces brilliant iridescence in pale shells. Though costly, its vivid color makes it highly desirable.

Freshwater Mussels

Pink Mussel (Potamilus purpuratus – USA & Hyriopsis schlegeli – Vietnam)

These mussels offer soft white or pink tones with a cloudy, velvety finish. Internal banding is common. Inlay work from India often uses a whiter variant.

Brown Mussel / Bank Climber (Plectomerus dombeyanus – USA)

A freshwater shell with light to medium brown streaks. It reflects far less light than typical M.O.P., making it appear soft and earthy.

Other Notable Shells

Violet Oyster (Mytilus edulis – Indonesia)

Also called the Blue Mussel, this shell appears black in dim light but reveals deep violet and fine rippling under illumination. It’s only available as small, thin blanks, but its beauty makes the effort worthwhile. C.F. Martin featured it in its limited-edition Purple Martin guitars.